Home Equity Calculator

Work out how much of your home you actually own, how much of that a lender will let you borrow against, and where your loan-to-value ratio sits against the bands that decide your rate.

Updated August 2026 Mortgage & Real Estate

Enter the value and what you owe

Currency
Equity in your home
Usable equity
Current loan-to-value
CLTV if you drew it all
Total secured against the property

Estimates only. The result depends entirely on the assumptions you enter. Rates, fees and tax rules vary by lender and by country, and none of this is financial, tax or investment advice. Confirm figures with a qualified adviser or the institution before you commit to anything.

How to Use the Home Equity Calculator

Equity is what your home is worth minus what you owe on it. Usable equity is what a lender will actually let you borrow against, which is always a good deal less. This calculator reports both, plus the loan-to-value ratio that determines what rate you are offered on almost any secured borrowing.

  1. Enter the current value. What the property would sell for today — a recent valuation, a sold-price comparison for a near-identical home nearby, or the midpoint of two agent estimates. Not what you paid, and not the optimistic figure.
  2. Enter the first mortgage balance. The outstanding balance from your most recent statement, not the original loan amount. It falls a little every month.
  3. Add any second lien. A home equity line, a second mortgage, or anything else registered against the property counts against your equity even if the balance is currently zero.
  4. Set the lender's maximum combined loan-to-value. Eighty to ninety per cent is the usual range; 85% is a fair default. This single number decides how much of your equity is reachable.
  5. Read the table. It shows what five different lender limits would release, which is worth knowing before you accept the first offer you are given.

The gap between the equity figure and the usable figure surprises most people. On the worked example it is $69,750 — equity that exists on paper and cannot be borrowed against at all.

Home Equity Formula

Four related quantities, and the difference between them is where the confusion lives.

Equity = current value − total secured debtLTV = total secured debt ÷ current value × 100Maximum lending = value × lender's maximum CLTVUsable equity = maximum lending − total secured debtCLTV after drawing = (existing debt + new borrowing) ÷ value × 100CLTV stands for combined loan-to-value: every loan secured against the property, added together, as a share of what the property is worth. A lender considering a second charge cares about this, not about your first mortgage alone.
What each symbol means
SymbolMeaningUnitTypical range
ValueCurrent market valuecurrency50,000 – 2,000,000
DebtFirst mortgage plus any second liencurrency0 – value
EquityValue minus debtcurrency
LTVDebt ÷ value%0 – 100
Max CLTVLender's ceiling on total borrowing%80 – 90

Note that usable equity can be zero or negative even when equity is substantial. If you owe more than the lender's ceiling allows, there is nothing to draw regardless of how much paper equity you hold.

Example

A $465,000 home with $288,000 of secured debt

  1. Total secured: first mortgage $268,000 plus a $20,000 home equity line = $288,000.
  2. Equity: 465,000 − 288,000 = $177,000, which is 38.1% of the value.
  3. Current loan-to-value: 288,000 ÷ 465,000 × 100 = 61.94% — comfortably below the 80% mark where mortgage insurance applies.
  4. Maximum lending at an 85% CLTV cap: 465,000 × 0.85 = $395,250.
  5. Usable equity: 395,250 − 288,000 = $107,250.
  6. Drawing all of it would take the CLTV to exactly 85%, the lender's ceiling, with no headroom left at all.

Why $177,000 of equity releases only $107,250

The $69,750 difference is the lender's safety margin. It exists so that a fall in prices does not immediately leave the loan under-secured, and so that a forced sale with costs attached still clears the debt. From your side it is a permanent haircut on paper wealth: reaching that last 15% requires selling the property, not borrowing against it.

How the lender's cap changes the answer

The cap does more work than any other input. At an 80% ceiling this property releases $84,000; at 90% it releases $130,500. That is a $46,500 swing on the same house with the same debt, decided entirely by which lender you approach. It is worth asking about the CLTV cap before the rate, because a better rate on a smaller facility may not be the better deal.

Reading Your Loan-to-Value Ratio

What five different lender limits would release on this property.

Available borrowing at each CLTV cap, $465,000 value and $288,000 owed
Maximum CLTVTotal lending allowedAvailable to youEquity left untouched
70%$325,500$37,500$139,500
75%$348,750$60,750$116,250
80%$372,000$84,000$93,000
85%$395,250$107,250$69,750
90%$418,500$130,500$46,500

Each five-point step in the cap releases $23,250 — 5% of the property's value. That linearity is worth remembering when you are quoted a limit: the difference between an 80% and an 85% lender is precisely 5% of your home's value, and nothing else.

Loan-to-value is the more important of the two headline figures, because it follows you everywhere. Below 80% you avoid mortgage insurance and see the better remortgage rates. Below 60% you usually see the very best. Above 90% your options narrow sharply and the pricing worsens quickly, which is why the amortisation schedule showing the balance falling is worth checking before a remortgage rather than after.

Equity also moves without you doing anything. Your balance falls every month, and the value moves with the market. A revaluation after a strong couple of years can drop your LTV a whole band and unlock a better rate — one of the few genuinely free wins available to a homeowner, and one that requires you to ask rather than wait.

Equity Feels Like Savings and Behaves Like a Loan

Equity feels like savings and behaves like a loan. Four points worth being clear about before drawing on it.

It is secured on your home. Unsecured debt in trouble damages your credit. Secured debt in trouble risks the house. Consolidating credit cards into a home equity line lowers the interest rate and raises the stakes, which is a trade worth making deliberately rather than by default.

The term matters as much as the rate. Moving a $20,000 card balance onto a mortgage at 6% instead of 22% looks like an obvious win, until you notice it is now being repaid over twenty-five years. Match the term to the purchase, or the cheap rate costs more in total — the loan payment calculator shows the difference plainly.

Valuations get challenged. The lender's surveyor, not your estimate, sets the value that goes into this calculation. A valuation 5% below your figure removes $19,762 of usable equity on this example. Being conservative in the value field avoids an unpleasant surprise later.

Prices fall. A 10% decline on this property removes $46,500 of equity and pushes the LTV from 61.94% to 68.8%. If you have already drawn to the ceiling, the same decline puts you above it, which limits your options at exactly the moment you would want them.

A last point about timing. Equity release is easiest to arrange when you least need it — while you are employed, the property is valued generously and the market is calm. Lenders tighten caps precisely when prices are falling, which is when borrowers want the money. If a facility is part of your plan, arranging it early and leaving it undrawn costs little and preserves the option.

For the wider picture, the net worth calculator places home equity alongside your other assets, which is the right context for deciding how much of your wealth should sit in one illiquid, undiversified asset. And if the goal is simply to reduce what you owe rather than to borrow more, the debt payoff calculator will order the balances for you.

Frequently Asked Questions

Subtract everything secured against the property from its current market value. On the worked example, $465,000 minus $288,000 of mortgage and home equity line leaves $177,000 of equity, or 38.1% of the value.

The part a lender will actually release. At an 85% combined loan-to-value cap, this property allows $395,250 of total lending against $288,000 already owed, leaving $107,250 available — $69,750 less than the equity on paper.

Below 80% avoids mortgage insurance and unlocks better rates; below 60% usually reaches the best pricing available. The example sits at 61.94%, which is a comfortable position for a remortgage.

Up to your lender's combined loan-to-value cap, minus what you already owe. Caps usually sit between 80% and 90%, and the difference between those two is 10% of your home's value — $46,500 here.

Yes. Any charge registered against the property reduces both your equity and your borrowing headroom, including a home equity line you have opened but not fully drawn, since the facility itself is secured.

Combined loan-to-value: every loan secured on the property added together, divided by the property's value. A lender considering a second charge underwrites against this figure rather than your first mortgage alone.

Three ways: pay down the balance, wait for prices to rise, or improve the property. Overpayments are the only one you control, and they reduce the balance pound for pound while also cutting future interest.

It lowers the interest rate and converts unsecured debt into debt secured on your home. The saving is real; so is the risk. If you do it, keep the repayment term short rather than stretching it across the mortgage.

Owing more than the property is worth, which happens when prices fall below your purchase price plus deposit. It does not affect your monthly payment, but it blocks remortgaging and makes selling costly.

Annually, and before any remortgage. Your balance falls every month and prices move independently, so crossing into a better loan-to-value band is common and nobody will tell you it has happened.